Spitsbergen, or Svalbard, must be one of the most fascinating places on this planet. It is the frontier to the Arctic, a magnet for tourists, and has a unique political setup where Norwegians and Russians live side by side on the permafrost. It is also one of the most fast-changing landscapes as a consequence of climate change. Disappearing sea ice, melting permafrost, and increasingly unstable ground create substantial challenges for the future. Mostly, it is stunning. The landscapes here are unique, the mountains have an architecture I have not seen anywhere else.